Hi John! Thank you very much for sharing these great tips with clarity. There is no easy way to achieve this kind of work but I like yours for its straightforwardness. Would be great to have next a short vid about your workflow used in the field to shot the Ha/RGB images.
Thanks mate, it's probably the easiest way I've found to do it so far, there are "better" ways but it gets so technical and takes the fun out of post processing
Hey John, great video mate. I recently grabbed a HA filter for DSO’s and have planned to do some wide field stuff before Orion sets. Your vid on how to bring it all together has inspired me, thanks mate 🍻
Great video John. I struggle integrating H-alpha data into RGB images accurately (esp. in red channel). They are a nightmare to line up as both images will usually differ slightly in composition. I use screen and free transform too but especially like your use of puppet warp and colorize. Nice one from the cloudy North. :)😃
Hi John, Can you clear up a few things for me please? You used an Astronomik H-alpha 12nm CCD Clip-Filter Sony alpha 7 to isolate the narrow bang Ha data. What camera did you put the clip in filter into? A full spectrum camera or an Ha+Visible modified camera? You also mentioned that you would stack multiple images of narrow band data of the Ha regions of the sky and later on, in editing, just add the narrow band data to the RGB image. You suggested that this data is your narrow band data map of a particular region of the sky, say Orion and that you could use this data in any image at a future date because narrow band Ha data will not change unless there is an astronomical event. So once you have shot the images, you don't need to really ever shoot that region of sky again. Thanks for the live stream John. 👍😎😁
Hey Geoff, it was used in a Ha + visible camera, but it doesn't make a difference if it's full spectrum because we are putting the filter in front of the sensor and only letting in Ha. Any yes once you have a "library " or stacks of all the different parts of the sky that have nebulosity you don't need to shoot Ha ever again if you choose not to.
Great video, Thanks JR. I've always shot the whole sky with my HR camera, then just tried to stretch the sky. Seems I have been doing it wrong... very wrong haha! Thanks again, Great video!
This was a great help mate, definitely going to invest in the Astronomik 12nm I think. Do you ever bother doing flats/darks/biases, or do you just rely on the profile corrections for vignetting etc? Keep up the good work!
Cheers mate, I have dabbled in calibration frames but I don't see the need for them with wide angle lenses for the amount of work it is, for longer focal length stuff they make a huge difference
Canon drop in filters are the way...i used to use clip in's but it was a right faff and always felt i'd end up dropping a lens. You can get the Meike clear filter and swap any 2" filter glass for the clear glass if you don't mind tinkering. I have the L-enhance to try out for my drop in system when the clouds bugger off.
I use a Canon 6D so I don't think there is a drop in filter adaptor available for this model. The drop in adaptor is only for mirrorless / Ra camera models right??
Absolute class mate, I really appreciate you doing this. Sorry I wasn’t on the chat earlier or I’d have these 2 questions then, firstly is there any apps that show where Hydrogen Alpha is in our night skies, as just wondering if it’s just the Orion area when trying to shoot a pano here in Scotland? And also is Astro Pixel Processor better than Starry landscape stacker for stacking the HA images?
Hey mate, I'm not sure about apps, you can just look at images that are HaRGB like mine to tell where everything is, I haven't done a test between starry landscape stacker and app but I couldn't see there being any difference except that app gives a black and white image and starry landscape stacker you need to do the extra step in PS of extracting the red channel
Hi John! What images stacking software you are using on your Mac? I have tested this well-known StarryLandscapeStacker myself for some time, but its really seems to me that this software no longer adds any details to the final stack in the case if put more than something 30+ tracked photos into process. So I think max 1h ins enough for this soft and extra exposure time will not make result any better. I am looking some alternatives. Thanks!
@johnrutterphotography John I'm trying to understand the requirement for widefield in general. Stupid question - is thw RGB simply an image captured with the camera as is i.e. be it modded or not. And the H-alpha one is with a H-alpha narrowband filter? Would you add yhe filter for a modded camera as well or just stock camera? Basically what I'm trying to understand is why would you need Halpha filter on H-alpha modded camera? Sorry for this rather stupid question
Yes the rgb part can be with either a modified camera or a standard camera. The narrowband filter needs to be on a modified camera, the filter ONLY let's in H alpha light, a standard camera filters out most H alpha light so if you try and use it on a standard camera you are only letting in light that your camera can't see so it won't work well. Because the filter only let's in H alpha light it cuts out the moon light, light pollution, it's not absolutely necessary but just another tool in the bag to help bring out the nebulosity
Hey John. I sent a message to you on your website. I'd like to reach out to ask you a question on something i'm seeing with the Sony a7 cameras that i'd like to confirm. Could you reach out to me at your convenience? Thanks so much!
World-class as always mate!! I remember shooting that night together and chatting about this. Thanks for being so open and sharing your process!!
Cheers Dan 🍻 my pleasure mate 👍
Great instruction here John. Lots of work in this considering the capture process as well in the field.
Thanks Richard 👍 it's alot of work for sure and definitely not for everyone
Hi John!
Thank you very much for sharing these great tips with clarity. There is no easy way to achieve this kind of work but I like yours for its straightforwardness.
Would be great to have next a short vid about your workflow used in the field to shot the Ha/RGB images.
Thanks mate, it's probably the easiest way I've found to do it so far, there are "better" ways but it gets so technical and takes the fun out of post processing
Fantastic video Jonh, thanks for sharing your techniques.
His photos are a delight to the eyes.
Thank you very much John😀👏👏👏
Thanks mate 👍 much appreciated
Absolutely amazing video, John. Thanks for sharing such valuable process and tips, I do really appreciate it!
Great work mate. Lots of good info. Nice simple workflow which I like.
Thanks mate 👍 I appreciate it
Hey John, great video mate. I recently grabbed a HA filter for DSO’s and have planned to do some wide field stuff before Orion sets.
Your vid on how to bring it all together has inspired me, thanks mate 🍻
Awesome mate! Glad it helped.
Awesome John! your the unsung hero of the Astro community!
Not sure about that, but I appreciate that none the less 👍
Whoa, pure enjoying. Crazy good content. I soaked it in like sponge. Thanks for sharing the insights.
My pleasure mate, glad you enjoyed it. Hope it helps
Great video John. I struggle integrating H-alpha data into RGB images accurately (esp. in red channel). They are a nightmare to line up as both images will usually differ slightly in composition. I use screen and free transform too but especially like your use of puppet warp and colorize. Nice one from the cloudy North. :)😃
Thanks mate, this method is working OK for me at the moment but I'm sure it will evolve over time, glad you got something out of it 👍
Great information John, thank heaps
My pleasure Eric 👍
This was a great tutorial. I Learnt a lot watching it.
Awesome 👌 glad you got something out of it
Hi John, Can you clear up a few things for me please? You used an Astronomik H-alpha 12nm CCD Clip-Filter Sony alpha 7 to isolate the narrow bang Ha data. What camera did you put the clip in filter into? A full spectrum camera or an Ha+Visible modified camera? You also mentioned that you would stack multiple images of narrow band data of the Ha regions of the sky and later on, in editing, just add the narrow band data to the RGB image. You suggested that this data is your narrow band data map of a particular region of the sky, say Orion and that you could use this data in any image at a future date because narrow band Ha data will not change unless there is an astronomical event. So once you have shot the images, you don't need to really ever shoot that region of sky again. Thanks for the live stream John. 👍😎😁
Hey Geoff, it was used in a Ha + visible camera, but it doesn't make a difference if it's full spectrum because we are putting the filter in front of the sensor and only letting in Ha. Any yes once you have a "library " or stacks of all the different parts of the sky that have nebulosity you don't need to shoot Ha ever again if you choose not to.
Great Video! Greetings from Spain!
Thanks mate! 👍
Great video, Thanks JR.
I've always shot the whole sky with my HR camera, then just tried to stretch the sky.
Seems I have been doing it wrong... very wrong haha!
Thanks again, Great video!
Thanks mate, 👍 I wouldn't say your doing it wrong, there are so many ways to do it and this is just the way I'm doing it at the moment. Hope it helps
Absolutely helps!
Another great video!
Cheers, @@johnrutterphotography
Muchas gracias por compartir.
Your welcome mate 👍
This was a great help mate, definitely going to invest in the Astronomik 12nm I think. Do you ever bother doing flats/darks/biases, or do you just rely on the profile corrections for vignetting etc? Keep up the good work!
Cheers mate, I have dabbled in calibration frames but I don't see the need for them with wide angle lenses for the amount of work it is, for longer focal length stuff they make a huge difference
Canon drop in filters are the way...i used to use clip in's but it was a right faff and always felt i'd end up dropping a lens.
You can get the Meike clear filter and swap any 2" filter glass for the clear glass if you don't mind tinkering. I have the L-enhance to try out for my drop in system when the clouds bugger off.
I use a Canon 6D so I don't think there is a drop in filter adaptor available for this model. The drop in adaptor is only for mirrorless / Ra camera models right??
@@gr-astro Yes only the R range for use with EF lenses.
It's definitely a great system, would love if sony did something similar so I could do it without having to buy all different lenses
Hi John,
Thanks for this useful video.
How do you do manual focus through the HA filter?
We would barely see the stars through it , wouldn't we?
Absolute class mate, I really appreciate you doing this.
Sorry I wasn’t on the chat earlier or I’d have these 2 questions then, firstly is there any apps that show where Hydrogen Alpha is in our night skies, as just wondering if it’s just the Orion area when trying to shoot a pano here in Scotland? And also is Astro Pixel Processor better than Starry landscape stacker for stacking the HA images?
Hey mate, I'm not sure about apps, you can just look at images that are HaRGB like mine to tell where everything is,
I haven't done a test between starry landscape stacker and app but I couldn't see there being any difference except that app gives a black and white image and starry landscape stacker you need to do the extra step in PS of extracting the red channel
I know Sky Safari Pro app has a function to display the objects in the night sky in Halpha signal. It is a very good night sky app but it is not free.
@@johnrutterphotography cheers mate, I’ll definitely be trying this out when we next have clear skies
@@flobeau2320 thanks, I’ll have a look at this
@@johnrutterphotography what were your exposure times for your RGB frames, 1x 60 seconds, or would you shoot longer or stack each frame?
Hello from Canberra
Hello luminita! Hope your doing well
Hi John!
What images stacking software you are using on your Mac?
I have tested this well-known StarryLandscapeStacker myself for some time, but its really seems to me that this software no longer adds any details to the final stack in the case if put more than something 30+ tracked photos into process. So I think max 1h ins enough for this soft and extra exposure time will not make result any better. I am looking some alternatives. Thanks!
Hey mate, I use astro pixel processor for stacking.
@johnrutterphotography John I'm trying to understand the requirement for widefield in general. Stupid question - is thw RGB simply an image captured with the camera as is i.e. be it modded or not. And the H-alpha one is with a H-alpha narrowband filter? Would you add yhe filter for a modded camera as well or just stock camera? Basically what I'm trying to understand is why would you need Halpha filter on H-alpha modded camera? Sorry for this rather stupid question
Yes the rgb part can be with either a modified camera or a standard camera.
The narrowband filter needs to be on a modified camera, the filter ONLY let's in H alpha light, a standard camera filters out most H alpha light so if you try and use it on a standard camera you are only letting in light that your camera can't see so it won't work well.
Because the filter only let's in H alpha light it cuts out the moon light, light pollution, it's not absolutely necessary but just another tool in the bag to help bring out the nebulosity
Flaming star and tadpoles nebulae I think
Hey John. I sent a message to you on your website. I'd like to reach out to ask you a question on something i'm seeing with the Sony a7 cameras that i'd like to confirm. Could you reach out to me at your convenience? Thanks so much!
I sent you an email mate